From the mountains to the Med: a self-guided stroll in Provence, France

I snatch a seat at a bar overlooking the Med and try my strolling direction for day after today. Cassis is within the center of the Calanques nationwide park – an ordinary position of steep fjord-like limestone inlets, deep inexperienced pines and turquoise sea – absolute best for exploring on foot. It’s a becoming finale to a solo self-guided mountain climbing travel with Macs Adventure, which has taken me from the Sainte-Baume mountains right down to the Riviera over six days. While my mountain climbing legs had been put to the check with as much as six hours of strolling every day, I’ve no longer needed to concern about logistics. The routes are plotted at the app and my baggage is transferred forward, leaving me to easily benefit from the surroundings.

Solo commute is on the upward thrust, consistent with the Association of British Travel Agents and excursion operators (17% of Macs Adventure journeys had been booked by means of unmarried travellers closing yr – maximum of them ladies). Offering the liberty to head at my very own tempo with no need to engage with a gaggle, however with lend a hand readily available if wanted, this travel promised a profitable mixture of journey and luxury; a perfect approach to discover less-trodden Provence on my own.

My journey starts with an evening in the village of Pont-de-l’Étoile, 30 mins east of Marseille by means of taxi, ahead of I set out on my first hike: 10 miles (16km) to Plan-d’Aups-Sainte-Baume. Tarmac quickly provides approach to stony paths as I go away city streets at the back of and climb against the ridge above Vallon St-Clair via a panorama of craggy limestone valleys, softened by means of shrubs equivalent to cistus and broom and wallet of pine and oak forest. Close to the traditional chapel of St-Clair, a mountain biker whizzes previous however then silence descends once more and there’s simply me and sweeping perspectives the entire as far back as Marseille.

In summer season, there may be an acute chance of wildfires on this a part of France, and water cisterns dot the direction (it’s beneficial to do that hike in spring or autumn). I climb what seems like a large picket chair (a lookout tower in all probability?) to picnic below the bluest skies, then proceed upwards alongside slim tracks against Col de Bertagne. There’s nobody round. I’m nailing it as a solo hiker, I believe.

But my smugness morphs into contained panic when my telephone battery dies and I realise I’ve left my paper map and gear financial institution at the back of. There is nobody round. I take a punt and scramble down the hillside, struggling with via dense wooded area till I discover a trail which in the end results in a highway. More via success than judgement, I in finding myself in Plan-d’Aups and the welcome sight of the Hôtel Lou Pèbre d’Aï – my house for the following two nights – simply two hours later than deliberate. I’m overjoyed to search out my room has a tub and sleep deeply that night time.

“Walkers love it here,” the receptionist tells me as I get ready to move off day after today, “the mountains are sacred – you’ll see.” Indeed, the Massif Sainte-Baume attracts pilgrims to its hidden chapels and holy websites. Today’s round stroll is 9 miles; I climb steep paths via woods to a ridge which I practice for a couple of hours, with 360-degree perspectives throughout nation-state and coast. The direction takes me previous shrines, hermit caves and the Sanctuary of Mary Magdalene (she’s stated to have lived a lifetime of penance right here for a few years) ahead of a shady forested descent.

That night time I dine on endives with walnuts and goat’s cheese and monkfish in a Provençal sauce – the lodge is understood for its delicacies ready by means of chef Jérôme. On a desk within sight, an aged guy will get out an A4-size symbol of a gilded saintly determine and props it up subsequent to him whilst he eats, like a good friend becoming a member of him for dinner. I believe it’s Mary Magdalene.

The pleasant the city of Gémenos is 20 mins by means of highway from Plan-d’Aups, however the direction I practice day after today takes 5 hours – and is in all probability my favorite stroll but. It feels wild and faraway, with paths zigzagging subsequent to deep gorges. I move the ruins of a Cistercian abbey and practice a river into lovely parkland. From right here it’s two brief bus rides down to Cassis, and flashes of ocean seem between the bushes. Three nights on the Hotel Royal Cottage and a new panorama watch for.

On a stretch of coast identified extra for the glamour of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Nice, it’s refreshing to find La Ciotat – an unpretentious former shipbuilding the city a 15-minute taxi trip east of Cassis. I wander suburban streets then climb to the highest of the Soubeyran cliffs – the easiest sea cliffs in France at Cap Canaille. Lingering morning mist clears to expose the impressive indented sea coast as I practice the winding Route des Crêtes again.

My closing day is stored for the Calanques to the west of Cassis. The wind is up and rain is threatened however I head out previous the sprawling villas at the outskirts of the city and shortly succeed in the Calanque de Port-Miou, boats bobbing on agitated water. In top summer season, customer numbers to the park are limited to give protection to the subtle surroundings. Today I’m nearly on my own as I scramble up and down, descending to the white seashore of Port-Pin, mountain climbing above Calanque d’en-Vau, then descending once more via a rocky ravine to the water. Its good looks feels even extra uncooked below the darkening sky and far-off roll of thunder.

The heavens open as I start the go back adventure and I arrive again in Cassis totally soaking wet. Heavy rain turns roads into rivers, flowing down against the ocean. I take shelter at Le Bonaparte, a family-run bistro in one of the most backstreets. Dressed head-to-toe in black, entire with beret, proprietor Jean Marie tells me he’s run where for 37 years – “and people still come back for more!” I’m no longer stunned, I inform him, once I style the moules gratinées and deliciously recent sea bass – accompanied by means of a tumbler of the native white wine de Cassis. It’s an unique style of Provence – and, I really feel, a suitable approach to toast an epic solo journey via a distinct and sundry a part of France.

The travel was once equipped by means of Macs Adventure. Seven-day self-guided Provence Mountains to the Mediterranean itinerary from £1,125pp, together with lodge lodging, breakfast, two dinners, transfers, baggage transfers, direction notes, GPS navigation and 24/7 give a boost to